Crown-setting for jewelry



(No Model.)

N. L. RIPLEY. GROWN SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

No. 387,449. Patented Aug. 7, 1888.

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NATHANIEL L. RIPLEY, OF NEWTON, ASSIGNOR TO THE RIPLEY HOWLAND MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

CROWN-SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 387,449, dated August 7, 1888.

Application filed March 17, 1888.

T0 aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, NATHANIEL L. RIPLEY, of Newton, in the county of Middlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Crown-Settings for Jewelry, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

In the manufacture of jewelry where diamonds and other stones are held in crownsettings very much trouble has been experienced in properly connecting the crown-setting to the wire-like portions of the article ofjewelry. The connection between the wire and the setting must be very secure or else the setting breaks off and the diamond or other stone is lost.

The chief object of my invention is to improve the manner of connecting the wire and setting.

In accordance with my invention the end of the wire is flattened, split, and passed outwardly to receive upon it or to be attached to the setting.

Figure l is a top or plan view of a stud, a form of jewelry which I have selected with which to illustrate my invention. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the stud shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a top view of the wire with the setting removed; and Fig. 4, a side elevation of Fig. 3, the base of the setting being shown in section. Fig. 5 shows the wire flattened and split preparatory to bending it out, and Fig. 6 adiagram illustrating one old form of wire.

The crown-setting, composed of an annular base, a and prongs a, rising from it, is and may be of any usual form. The wire I) of the body of the article to which the setting is soldered,

Serial No. 267,452. (No model.)

as shown in Fig. 5, is split and bent outwardly o to form two arms, 2 2, which are firmly soldered to the base a of the crown'setting, as best shown in Fig. 4.

Prior to my invention when applying settings to wires, and especially in the manufac- 5 ture of studs, it has been customary to solder upon the end of the wire a cross-bar and then solder the ends of the cross-bar to the base of the setting; and, again, the end of the wire has been turned over, as at c, as illustrated in the diagram, Fig. 6, and a second curved piece, 0, has been soldered to it, thus making a two-part cross-bar. In my invention the cross-bar, composed of the arms 2 2, is integral with the wire, and great strength is gained over that possible with a soldered joint, and as a result a stronger and more secure setting is gained, and that, also, at less cost.

The end of the wire, before being flattened and split, may be somewhat upset or enlarged. The wire I) is bent to form a spiral shank, b

I claim- 1. In an article of jewelry, a wire split at its end and bent to form a cross-bar integral with the wire, combined with a crown-setting attached to the said cross-bar, substantially as described.

2. The wire I), bent to form a spiral shank, b and split at its end to form a cross-bar, 2 2, integral with the wire, substantially as described.

In testimony whereofI have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

NATHANIEL L. RIPLEY.

Witnesses:

BERNIOE J. NoYEs, FREDRIOK L. EMERY. 

